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Abreojos

Abreojos

It is unfortunate that on the majority of my photography trips to some of the best waves in the world I am unable to surf. Already loaded up with over two hundred pounds of camera gear, luggin along a surfboard is simply not an option. However, since I drove to this location I decided to bring a few boards. When I had a break from shooting I paddled out at this grinding right hander. The take off zone is rather tricky here as it is literally about ten feet from a razor sharp barnacle-covered rock ledge. As I dropped in on my first wave the wind and water pelted me in the eyes, blinding me, and I was forced over the falls. I proceeded to be dragged over the sharp rocks as they mangled my board and body. After the beating had ceased I sat on the beach examining my destroyed board and multiple gashes. I shot this one last image and decided to call it a day.